Wednesday 9th November - Park Life

The sleep pattern has almost returned to normal and it might have been an uninterrupted night if R's watch had not buzzed at 07.00 GMT (01.00 here time). The correct alarm goes at 05.00 and we quickly dress for our morning boat excursion into the Tortuguero National Park. We have to report to reception and have our park permit checked. This has been booked in advance for us by Pieter of Aratinga Tours, who has put together the whole of our itinerary. This has saved us a bit of hassle as other people have had to scramble around to sort out permits after arriving here. As we get processed a lady dispenses coffee which is most welcome at this ungodly hour.

For the second day running there is sunshine and blue skies, and the air feels fresher today although it is still early. Today we are on a much smaller boat which holds 20 passengers and a crew of two who are captain/driver Ernesto and once again Denis is our guide. By good fortune we are at the back of the queue for boarding which means we get to be on the front row of seats which we share with a young English couple. The rest of the passengers seem to be either German or French. With a minimum of fuss we cast off and cruise south down the lagoon getting a brief glimpse of a crocodile swimming in mid lagoon and only a few yards away.

 The Park office is at the very southern tip of the township and we wait there while Denis gets the necessary permission. After about ten minutes he returns and the boat heads off across the lagoon into the Park. On the way acoss the lagoon Denis tells us a bit about the Park. Only 10% is available for public access. The rest is a sanctuary with limited visiting by rangers and scientists. Tourism is encouraged but controlled.  He also tells us that November should be the height of the rainy season on this coast so we have been very lucky with the weather. 

 There are plenty of other boats about and several are congregated in a small cove in front of some large trees. Denis directs us to look up to where we see an osprey, which has migrated here to avoid the North American winter. Much nearer the water level there are a couple of  types of small heron as well as an Anhinga, a type of cormorant that looks a bit like the snake birds that are common in the Kerala Backwaters.

If yesterday was reptile day this morning is heron half day. If you have ever wondered what a Bare Throated Tiger Heron looks like wonder no more

The different birds keep on appearing and if they don't appear Denis and Ernesto know where to go looking for them. We detour into a narrow backwater where the jungle closes in to look for a particular bird. As we glide through the inky water Denis stops the boat and bids us look up. A troop of Capuchin Monkeys are making their way through the canopy, jumping from tree to tree.

From time to time we see iguanas and basilisks as well as Howler monkeys and various small water birds. R is always partial to a Kingfisher and is delighted to make her very own spot of this Amazon one. 

The allocated two hours is up before we know it and we return to Mawamba Lodge for breakfast. As we wait for our food a man on the next table gestures outside. We turn to see toucans feeding on trees just next to the restaurant. Just when we thought it couldn't get any better.

The morning is spent swimming and catching up on Duolingo lessons. The only internet connection is in the restaurant/bar/pool area but it is pretty quiet this morning and nobody seems to mind D mumbling Spanish into his phone. The cabins here are quite basic, although comfortable enough, and lack refinements such as a tea/coffee maker. D is prepared for this and with a flourish produces a travel kettle out of the no longer missing bag. Given enough time this will boil up about a pint of water allowing us to make a passable cup of tea. The coffee here is very good but sometimes only a cuppa will do.

Unlike our visits to India we are here on more or less a fully catered basis. The meals at the Mawamba Lodge arrive in very generous portions and lunch is the biggest meal of the day.  If we follow a regime like that we will need extra seats when we fly home so we limit ourselves to one course in the middle of the day. It isn't too much of a hardship in the hot and rather humid weather that we are enjoying. We can't linger too long in the restaurant as we have another boat tour booked for 14.30.

Yet again Denis is our guide and Ernesto drives. This time our cunning plan to get the front seat flops and we are towards the back,  but with a whole row of seats to ourselves. The two German chaps from the cabin next to us have the row in front. This morning they were kayaking and when asked tell us all about it. The boat is not full and there are fewer other craft about than this morning when we dock at the Park centre to have permits checked. When we get going we start with a couple more herons but the real stars this afternoon are toucans. We learn that the photo up the page shows two different toucans in one shot. The one on the left is of the Black-mandibled variety while on the one the right is Keel-Billed. The photo below shows a slightly smaller toucan called a Collared Aracari. We spend a good while watching a group of these in the trees on the edge of the forest.

These birds flit from tree to tree, making a real racket, and as we watch they disturb a large iguana which starts climbing upwards to find some peace and quiet.

The weather shifts from sunny to overcast and we hear distant thunder. We continue our excursion and see a troop of Howler Monkeys, who live up to their name and make some quite scary noises. A gentle rain begins to fall and the light deteriorates so the picture of a young Cayman, about a foot long, was deemed too blurry to publish. Denis tells us that a full grown Cayman is about 2.5metres long and that it is likely that mother is not too far away. It is fair to say that some on board feel quite nervous on hearing that. The rain gets heavier and the light even worse so time is called and we return to Mawamba Lodge. 

D is equipped with an umbrella and detailed to go into town in order to purchase cocktail hour essentials. Garlic flavoured plantain crisps turn out to be jolly tasty. R is contemplating becoming their their UK agent, just as long as there are free samples. It's time to sign off.

Yo tengo una reserva para dos personas.